I miss my life

My life was a bit ordinary but it was like most, but it’s a bit different here in Australia.
I grew up on a place called the Sunshine Coast.
I grew up around surfers and bodyboarders and the like and was in the water a lot of the time.
At around the age 14, I left high school and all I use to do before and after school was surf before that.
So with nothing to do, no computer no internet all I did was go to the beach.
There was this break I knew near my town which I won’t name but I surfed it for the first time after seeing surfers surf it from the age of 4 and I fell in love with it.
All I did, every single day for around a year straight was walk about 30-45 minutes to and from to this surfing spot all day everyday and surf from the moment I woke until the sun went down - and I learnt everything myself and all I did was surf and surf and surf.
It got to the point that I knew the break inside out, every moment it went off I was there I knew where it broke the best place to take of and everything both on the shoulder and on the inside.
Every moment whether no one was there or someone was there I was out there and I use to try to get everyone I knew from school to come after school because it’s all I did.
I knew my limits though, when it was big I’d sit on the shoulder when it was packed I’d sit semi close to the shoulder. Does anyone understand surfer lingo? You can sit down and watch the movie “blue crush” do you know what happens when someone surfs at a break everyday regardless of age, they end up owning the break.
One day I was out there and it was semi-big but fairly packed and I sat on the shoulder one of the surfers my age paddled beside me do you know where your sitting? (I didn’t understand all of this at this age but I kind of did but I know now as an adult). he paddled over and said your sitting on the shoulder mate do you know what I’m saying (blue crush reference here). I paddled in and caught a wave there was about 20 people out there and a few bodyboarders and everyone let me have it.
Than I sat back on the shoulder again he arks up you know your on the shoulder again mate! What are you doing there mate! I snap back in front of everyone You know exactly why i’m here. (a few people shouted out what the ■■■■ was that about, non-locals). he paddled over to a local and goes do you know who that is and he goes I know exactly who that is. Than they started chatting about how if the break was unpacked I’d probably work my way over from the shoulder while it was big and would catch nearly everyone and he goes do you see the ones on the shoulder his getting? His getting all the best ones and the other ones are just sitting there. this is when a few people over heard and chimmed in no ■■■■■■■ way.
HE OWNS THE SPOT and his that old! another one said that’s what happens when you have trauma. we’ve all seen the movie.

That’s the type of kid I was growing up, a young grom - I use to shred the ■■■■ out of that ■■■■■■■ break aye.
I’d even dream about it going of and I can still remember some dreams, the only reason why i’m sharing this is because I forgot I ended up moving to a place far away that has a bad repuation on the place I grew up at.
And this happened many times, after this event happened a few other times a lot of people caught onto who owned the break and would speak about it while I was out there and they’d go off at people that tried to sneak my waves or If I didn’t look left (because it was a right handed reef).

Thankfully though they upped my medication and a lot of memories are coming back.
But man, what I would do to go back to the coast and live there, the sad thing is though that I ended up moving away a short time later and forgot about so much until now and i was getting really good in the water and a lot of people could see it but I ended up moving away so a lot of it is forgotten.

Sometimes I wonder who owns the break now. here is a photo of the place.
I was there every day even when it was uncrowded or when it was going of during cyclone swells.
■■■■ I miss my life. :frowning:

on a good day you could catch a wave from the far right all the way to where the towers rock wall is.
and get barreled all the way

Just wanted to share this so people can realize good things happen with medication life moves on and you might get your memories back.


I did not read your entire post because of focus problems. But I miss my life too. I struggle hard to get back what I lost. I’m not there yet…but my goal is high. Hopefully not too high. Small baby steps makes me come back to where I “lost it”.